Road through Vonarskarð to reopen after a decade of dispute
Vonarskarð is located within Vatnajökull National Park and would be part of the proposed Highlands National Park if that plan comes to fruition. Kvíavatn lake can be seen here. mbl.is/RAX
The board of Vatnajökull National Park has approved an amendment to the park’s management and conservation plan, allowing motor vehicle and bicycle traffic through Vonarskarð each year starting September 1, until the area becomes impassable due to weather conditions.
The decision will initially be valid for five years on a trial basis. It now awaits final approval from Minister of Environment, Energy, and Climate Jóhann Páll Jóhannsson, who is expected to announce his decision next week.
The area has been closed to all traffic except pedestrians since 2013, a move that sparked strong reactions at the time.
Symbolic protest in 2010
Back in 2010, after the decision to close the area was announced, around 1,000 people in over 300 vehicles drove up to Kistufell along the Sprengisandur route and held a symbolic “funeral” for Icelanders’ right to travel freely within the national park. As part of the protest, they even erected a large cross on the site.
Minister’s signature required
The national park board’s decision must now be signed off by the minister. According to the ministry, the matter is currently under review and a final ruling is expected next week.
Sigurjón Andrésson, mayor of Hornafjörður and a board member of Vatnajökull National Park, told mbl.is he was pleased with the outcome:
“This is a big step, and it’s great that we’ve reached this point,”
he said, noting that the issue has been under discussion within the park for the past three years.
If the minister confirms the decision, Andrésson expects that a team will head to the area next weekend to mark the route.
“My hope is that we can stake out the route the following weekend, provided the minister signs off on it. It’s crucial that people don’t go there before the official opening, once the route has been properly marked and the area formally declared open,”
he stressed.
He added that he hopes to involve the 4x4 travel club in preparing and marking the trail, as its members are highly experienced in highland driving and could help ensure responsible use of the route.
A high plateau between glaciers
Vonarskarð is a high plateau situated between Tungnafellsjökull and Bárðarbunga glaciers, about 900 meters above sea level, surrounded by rugged mountains and glaciers. It is also a key watershed for Iceland’s highlands: Skjálfandafljót river flows north into Skjálfandi Bay, while Köldukvísl river flows south into Hágöngulón and later Þórisvatn reservoir.
The area is also home to several geothermal zones.
Nature conservation vs. travel freedom
Those advocating for a continued ban on vehicles argue that Vonarskarð is a unique and fragile landscape deserving special protection — a sanctuary for hikers.
Supporters of reopening the route, on the other hand, emphasize the principle of travel freedom and point out that there is already an existing road through the area, which was in use long before the 2013 ban. The 4x4 travel club has been a leading voice in this effort.
A step toward compromise
According to Andrésson, the debate over Vonarskarð’s closure has been ongoing since 2013, with differing opinions within the national park’s board and the western regional council.
He says this new decision represents a compromise: during the summer, the area will remain reserved for hikers, while in the autumn, it will open for motor vehicles and bicycles on a five-year trial basis.
“This way, more groups — including the elderly and those with limited mobility — will have the opportunity to experience this vast and unique landscape,”
he explained.
Traffic will be limited to the existing track that already runs through Vonarskarð. A monitoring plan has also been approved, setting out clear criteria and responses should there be any signs of environmental damage.
“Motorized traffic through Vonarskarð will continue to be governed by Iceland’s nature conservation laws, allowed only on frozen, snow-covered ground, excluding geothermal areas. This ensures that nature protection remains the top priority,” Andrésson concluded.