"Belonging to a community where everyone knows everyone is wonderful"

Esther Ösp Valdimarsdóttir didn’t know what to expect when she moved with her husband, ethnologist Eiríkur Valdimarsson, and their children to the Westfjords—specifically to Hólmavík—over a decade ago.

Valdimarsdóttir, born and raised in Reykjavík, had hardly ever ventured beyond the city limits—perhaps as far as Selfoss—when the couple made the big decision to pack up their belongings and start a new life in Hólmavík.

Life in this small, peaceful, and charming Westfjord village pleasantly surprised Esther Ösp and her family. She says that moving and expanding their horizons has been a great gift for life.

Why did you decide to move from Reykjavík?

"Yes, exactly, that’s a big question! At first, I saw it almost like an anthropological research project. I studied anthropology at the University of Iceland, and through that education, you develop critical thinking and start seeing the world differently.

One day, while watching the news in my capital-city arrogance and seeing people complain about life in the countryside, I realized I couldn't relate to what they were saying. I became curious to experience it for myself. That’s how it happened—in short.”

The world got bigger

Did you know much about Hólmavík?

“No, I knew next to nothing about the place. I’d driven through once.”

Valdimarsdóttir had expected her world to shrink after moving to Hólmavík, but the opposite happened.

“Yes, it actually expanded my world—that really surprised me. I didn’t expect that. When I worked as an adjunct lecturer at the University of Iceland, I only interacted with people in the social sciences who thought like I did. But here in Hólmavík, I interact daily with all kinds of people who see the world from very different perspectives—and that’s been incredibly enriching.”

What’s the best part of living in a small town?

“Belonging to a community where everyone knows everyone is wonderful. It makes me feel good. And of course, it’s very convenient to have everything within reach.”

How have your children adjusted to life in Hólmavík?

“Our older boys were three and seven when we moved, and they adapted instantly. It was a very important and positive step for them, I think. There’s more flexibility in everything, and kids are more independent.”

Friday beers after work

Is there a vibrant cultural and social life in Hólmavík?

“Yes, absolutely. The locals are quite creative and regularly come up with fun things to do. There are interesting museums, a great swimming pool, a café, a bar, an ethnology center, a church choir, and a pretty active amateur theatre group.

There’s also a fun tradition among the women in town—they meet every Friday after work to have a beer at Kaffi Galdur and chat about life. It’s a nice, positive way to end the workweek.”

If you had to describe Hólmavík in five words, which would you choose?

“Hmm… culture, meringue, community—there’s a bit of an 'm' theme there,” she laughs. “And maybe happiness and hardship, because both have played a big part in life here in Hólmavík for many years.”

Plenty to see and experience

Is Hólmavík a popular destination among tourists?

“Yes, definitely. A lot of people travel here, especially in the summer, although many just stop for part of a day. I’d love to see people stay longer and enjoy everything that’s on offer. There’s so much to see and experience here.”

And finally, what are the must-see or must-do things in Hólmavík and nearby?

“The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft is very popular and has been a major attraction for years. Many people make a day trip from Reykjavík just to visit. There’s also the Nature Child Festival in the Strandir region, the Sheep Farming Museum, and Galdur Brewery.

But I think Hólmavík is best used as a base for exploring the surrounding area, including the Ísafjarðardjúp bay, Drangsnes, Krossneslaug geothermal pool, and Kaldalón valley. There are so many natural gems around us.”