The best meditation is sitting in a berry bush on a nice summer day in Mjóifjörður

The Eastern region is very dear to Ragnhildur Aðalsteinsdóttir. She grew up in Vaðbrekka in Hrafnkelsdalur Valley, then lived in Fellabær during high school, before moving to Reykjavík in her twenties. She says she is quite good at visiting her childhood memories, and most of her family still lives in the East. She rejoices with those who have yet to experience coming to Stórurð hiking trails for the first time.

Aðalsteinsdóttir has a background in media studies, photography, and guidance, and worked for a long time as a journalist for Vikan and other magazines. Currently, she works as a guide both at home and abroad. Aðalsteinsdóttir also takes on various photography projects and has been able to capture beautiful pictures during her travels around the country. Outdoor recreation and hiking are a big part of her life, and there is hardly an Icelandic mountain that Aðalsteinsdóttir, as she is usually called, has yet to climb. She says East Iceland is wonderful in so many ways. "This area is my 'home,' and every tuft that welcomes me embraces that feeling." The east has diverse natural beauty with high peaks and narrow fjords on the east coast, one of the most lush areas in the country up in Hérað Bay, and the vast meadows on the moors north of Vatnajökull glacier. The possibilities for outdoor activities are enormous."

Aðalsteinsdóttir’s favorite places are numerous, and she first mentions Stórurð hiking trails, one of the most magnificent places in the wide world she has visited. "I’m happy for everyone who visits this place; there is nothing like coming there for the first time. In any case, I had a kind of spiritual experience. Above that, Mt Dyr, with the most beautiful peaks in the country, reigns supreme. Hellisheiði eystri, lave plateau, offers a great view of the Hérað Bay. Some people think it's quite steep to drive over there, but when the visibility is good, it's definitely worth it." She adds that Atlavík in Hallormsstaðaskógur National Forest offers one of the most beautiful and weather-friendly campsites in the country, and there's nothing like camping there when the weather is beautiful.

Many exciting and cool peaks

She points to several peaks down on the fjords that are particularly dear to her. "Mt Hólmatindur between Eskifjörður and Reyðarfjörður, Hvítserkur Sea Stack at Húsavíkurheiði between east of Borgarfjörður and the town of Húsavík, and mt Eystrahorn at Lón in Austur Skaftafell County are all unique. Finally, I must mention both Fljótsdalsheiði and Jökuldalsheiði with their dynamic expanse, often desert landscapes, and beautiful lakes, ponds, vegetation, and marshes in between. Snæfell to the southeast and Herðubreið to the northwest dominate these moors, which are also home to one of the main reindeer herds, which I love very much."

Three amazing hiking trails – Þerribjarg, Magnahellir, and Hólmanes

Aðalsteinsdóttir mentions several hiking trails in the area, starting with Þerribjarg. "It's quite a difficult walk and steep, but the reward is all the better. Perhaps the most unusual thing about the trail is that it starts at about 600 meters above sea level, goes down to the sea, and then back up. The hardest part is after the main natural pearl has been visited. Drive up to Hellisheði Eystri and then follow the road until you reach a sign with information about the hiking trail. A four-wheel drive vehicle is required. First, you walk out to the mountain park, then down a steep slope to Múlahöfn. Finally, you walk along the sea until you reach the viewpoint where Þerribjarg overlooks. I recommend that people go from the viewpoint down to Langasandur to enjoy the beauty even more. The walk is about 11 km in total with a total ascent of 820 meters."

She also mentions Magnahellir cave, which is suitable for most people to walk to, but the route is about 2.5 km. "This cave is in Hafrahvammur by Dimmugljúfur canyon. Drive to Kárahnjúkavirkjun and take a dirt road to the north with the Dimmugljúfur canyon to the west of the dam. Then you soon come to a trail that leads down to the parking lot with an information sign where the walk begins. On the way to the cave, there is a viewing platform where you can see the rugged natural beauty of this magnificent canyon." The last trail she mentions is Hólmanes, a nature reserve between Eskifjörður and Reyðarfjörður. "It's about a 4 km long loop from the parking lot at the foot of Mt Hólmatindur. There are interesting rock formations and a lot of birdlife. Sometimes there are also reindeer on the cape."

Elf queen, puffins, and seals

Aðalsteinsdóttir says it's a must to visit east of Borgarfjörður to see the puffin colony in Hafnarhólmi islet and enjoy a meal at the local restaurants, followed by a meeting with the elf queen herself in Álfaborg. "I would also like to mention seal watching on horseback at the town of Húsey, located on Héraðsflói between Lagarfljót and Jökulsár á Dal River. There is a lot of birdlife, tranquility, and natural beauty. Additionally, the Wilderness Center in Fljótsdalur offers an exhibition about the adventures of the wilderness and people's relationship with nature and its unkind forces in previous years. It also offers homely meals, accommodation, and various activities, such as hiking, cycling, and horse rental. Not far away, there is a reconstructed cable car for the glacier river that visitors can try."

A variety of activities for children

In East Iceland, there is a lot to do for children. Aðalsteinsdóttir mentions the swimming pools at Eskifjörður and Egilsstaðir, noting they are magnificent, even if they don't look like much. "A hike with the children up to Fardagafoss waterfall above Egilsstaðir is short and fun. When the river is low, you can go behind the waterfall with a little effort. It's also fun to visit the reindeer park in Vínland in Fell, where the tame reindeer Garpur and Mosi live." She adds that one of the nicest bathing spots in the country is to the east, Vök Baths at Urriðavatn. "It's wonderful to lie in the hot pool up by the facilities building as well as in the hot tubs below in Urriðavatn. Then it's almost mandatory to go into the water itself and take a little swim."

Adventurous mountains and beautiful rocks

The Eastfjords are very special in a geological sense, she says. "They are the oldest region in the country after the Westfjords. In the mountains, you can see the lava stacks, one on top of the other, at fjords and valleys dug by glaciers during the many cold periods of the Ice Age. In several places in East Iceland, such as Borgarfjörður Eystri and Lónsöræfi, you can find large areas of liparite that suggest old burned-out main volcanoes. In East Iceland, you can find many kinds of beautiful rocks, which can be seen at Petra's Rock Museum in Stöðvarfjörður. Petra Sveinsdóttir, the founder of the museum, regularly walked around the mountains in Austfjörður collecting rare rocks." She recommends visiting the museum.

An exciting area for foodies

The East is sometimes called the Icelandic food basket. What must everyone taste? "Some kind of reindeer meat, for example at the Nielsen or Lyng restaurants in Hótel Héráð. In Seyðisfjörður, the restaurant Norð Austur sushi&bar offers some of the best sushi in the country. I also have to mention the restaurant Bókakaffi in Fellabær, which offers strictly honest Icelandic food. On Wednesdays, there is always kótilettur, a breaded cutlet of meat, for lunch, and on Friday afternoons, a coffee buffet that would look good at any confirmation party. Ice cream with a dip at Söluskálinn (now N1 Egilsstaðir) is an absolute must," adds Aðalsteinsdóttir firmly, noting that Klausturkaffi in Skriðuklaustur is her favorite restaurant in the east. There is an emphasis on Icelandic cuisine made from scratch with ingredients from the local environment, such as lamb, reindeer meat, ram berries, and larkspur mushrooms.

Many accommodation options, but two are Aðalsteinsdóttir’s favorites

Aðalsteinsdóttir recommends that travelers stay in the countryside. "I would like to mention two of my favorite places: Fljótsdalsgrund, which is in one of the best weather spots in the East, in the heart of Fljótsdalur in the Hérað, and Hotel Stuðlagil, which is in my old boarding school in Jökuldalur Valley. These may not be the most 'fancy' places to stay, but both have excellent hosts, a charming spirit, and good service." Regarding Kárahnjúkavirkjun, she mentions the tourism site Laugafell. "There is a beautiful hiking trail down Laugará, up Jökulsá River in Fljótsdalur, and back. After that, you can take a dip in the hot tubs around the hot spring in the area."

When asked where the best place is to rest and recharge her batteries in the area, she answers firmly: Mjóifjörður fjord. "There is the most energy to be found when it comes to charging the batteries, not least in late summer when the berries have arrived. Sitting in a berry heather on a nice summer day on a beautiful slope in Mjóifjörður is one of the best meditations you can think of," she adds with a smile at the end.