Review: Iceland's best sushi opens in the remote town of Seyðisfjörður

Davíð Kristinsson, one of the owners of Norð-austur bar and …

Davíð Kristinsson, one of the owners of Norð-austur bar and sushi in Seyðisfjörður. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

Anna Margrét Björnsson

mbl.is
Anna Margrét Björnsson

Opening a top- end sushi restaurant in the normally sleepy town of Seyðisfjörður is an ambitious, but incredibly successful venture. Norð-austur sushi and bar opened its doors earlier this summer and offers an impressive range of exquisite and innovative dishes.

Fishing village and hip artist community

Seyðisfjörður, located in a fjord some 27 kilometres from Egilsstaðir, boasts one of the most unique settings of an Icelandic town. Driving through steep mountains from Egilsstaðir, from a hilltop the town suddenly appears on the horizon below, a picturesque arrangement of houses completely surrounded by mountains and mostly built in the traditional Icelandic style. The main landmark is a powder blue church, built in the early 1920's and several waterfalls can be seen descending from the hills.

What's unique also to this town, which is a 10 hour drive from Reykjavík,  is that it has a very vibrant cultural scene and is the chosen home of many Icelandic and international artists. Renowned German artist Dieter Roth resided in Seyðisfjörður and the Dieter Roth Academy is located in the Skaftfell cultural centre. The LungA arts festival takes place annually in July where young artists participate in workshops hosted by experienced artists, culminating in a weekend of exhibition and concerts.

The experienced sushi chefs at the restaurant.

The experienced sushi chefs at the restaurant. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

Top sushi chefs from New York

At the heart of this scenic town is Norð-austur bar and sushi, located on the second floor of a building dating from 1900 which also houses the charming Hótel Aldan. It boasts stunning views of the lagoon and the interiors, like in Hótel Aldan, are at once cosy and hip, with subdued hues of forest green and a central bar area where people can also sit and grab a drink. Two murals by Icelandic artist Harpa Einarsdóttir of imaginary animals lend a magical and slightly indiginous air to the surroundings and traditional items from Seyðisfjörður in times past, such as an old pair of snowshoes, decorate the walls.

"We thought that Seyðisfjörður needed a wider variety of restaurants," explains one of the owners, Davíð Kristinsson who also owns the local Hótel Aldan and Skaftfell Bistro with his business partner Dýri Jónsson. "We went all out and looked for excellent sushi chefs in the US and in Europe, chefs who would be prepared to relocate to remote Seyðisfjörður to work at a new sushi restaurant there," he explains. "We got two wonderful chefs from New York, Moto and John Yi, and Javier, from a renowned Spanish sushi restaurant. They're really happy about living in Seyðisfjörður which they find pretty exotic." He adds that the restaurant is only open during high season, from May until of September 5th as tourism all year-round hasn't really hit east Iceland yet.

Preparing the arctic char tartar.

Preparing the arctic char tartar. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

"We use fish that's as fresh as it can get, straight from the local fishermen," says Kristinsson who says his chefs were astounded by the quality of the fish. "They love creating classic sushi because the fish is so good, but they're very creative also, doing what is known as new Japanese cooking."

Innovative Japanese cuisine

My dining experience at Norð-austur sushi and bar began with a cocktail, a gorgeous cucumber and gin concoction,  followed by a delicate tartare of arctic charr accompanied by basil and avocado. Next up, a spicy and mouthwatering cod ceviche with lime, leche de tiere and habanero sauce, and smoked steel head trout with yuzu skyr, basil oil and lemon zest.  The first main course made an impressive entrance to the table, salmon belly sizzling on hot black Icelandic stones cooking it to just-seared and melt-in-the mouth perfection. This was followed by cod collar with ponzu sauce and delicious spicy Japanese chicken wings. Dessert was a bitter-sweet green macha tea creme brulee, a light and refreshing ending to an outstanding meal. Prices are surprisingly moderate and there's a good wine list and a range of Icelandic beer on tap.

Arctic char tartare with avocado, basil and sundried tomato.

Arctic char tartare with avocado, basil and sundried tomato.

The food at Norð-austur sushi is so excellent that I have to admit it's the best Japanese food I've eaten in Iceland, and the absolutely beautiful setting lends it a truly magical air. I'd always reccommend a visit to the beautiful Seyðisfjörður and I'd honestly say that this restaurant would be worth the visit in itself.

Norð-austur sushi and bar, Norðurgata 2, Seydisfjörður, Nordur-Múlasýsla.

For reservations call 787 4000. Visit their Facebook page HERE.

A flight to Egilsstaðir with Air Iceland from the Reykjavik domestic terminal takes only one hour. The drive between Egilsstaðir and Seyðisfjörður takes approx. 20 minutes.

A sushi roll adorned with local flowers

A sushi roll adorned with local flowers Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

Spicy Japanese chicken wings

Spicy Japanese chicken wings Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

Hot rock salmon belly, sizzling on local Icelandic stones.

Hot rock salmon belly, sizzling on local Icelandic stones. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

Artwork by Harpa Einarsdóttir adorns the restaurant.

Artwork by Harpa Einarsdóttir adorns the restaurant. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

The stunning setting of Norð-austur sushi and bar with views …

The stunning setting of Norð-austur sushi and bar with views on the lagoon. Photo: Laufey Jónsdóttir

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